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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.